Three years after planting 15 peonies on my farm in North Carolina, I was finally blessed with approximately 45 luxurious blossoms on strong stems. I brought them to a local florist, who bought all of them for five dollars each! She told me, “I’ll buy every peony you can bring me for the next two weeks.” Mother’s Day was two weeks away. I was so ecstatic, I drove around town for the next three days knocking on doors asking if I could buy their budding peony blossoms. I ended up making over $1,000 in one weekend. And that, folks, is what funded my first wholesale order of bulk peonies.  

A bouquet of three peachy-colored peonies in a vase.

Coral sunset peonies from Danielle’s farm. Photo: Danielle Crocker

Few crops match the pure delight and commercial potential of herbaceous peonies (Paeonia lactiflora). As a perennial enthusiast, I am drawn to plants that return year after year, offering compounding value to a small farm. In Western North Carolina, our cool spring temperatures provide the ideal environment for these stunning blooms. Beyond the joy they bring to me, peonies are highly versatile. You can sell them as fresh-cut stems, bare or potted root divisions, or dry the unsold flowers to sell for winter wreaths and arrangements. 

Successfully growing peonies requires some management during their life cycle, but above all, it requires patience. A common saying goes, “The first year they sleep, second year they creep, and the third year they leap.”  

Sourcing and Planting Strategy 

While you can grow peonies from seed, purchasing bare roots with three to five “eyes” ensures a much faster turnaround and less overall maintenance.  

Sourcing: If you have a local peony farm nearby, reach out and see when they sell divisions. A quick web search should identify local peony farms. Otherwise, Van Engelen Inc. and Farmer Bailey – Farmer Bailey Inc. are two of my favorite websites for reasonably priced bulk peonies.  

Soil and Sun: Peonies prefer a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Excellent drainage is non-negotiable to prevent root rot. They perform best with morning sun and afternoon shade, or under dappled sunlight throughout the day. 

Depth and Spacing: When planting, ensure the top eyes (buds where the stems develop from) of the root crown are set 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Planting too deeply can prevent blooming. Since my goal is commercial production, I plant 2.5 feet apart within rows. Mature peonies can grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide, so I will eventually divide or thin plants to give them more space. 

Illustration of a peony root, with roots extending down into soil and eyes pointing upward, two inches below soil surface.

Proper depth of planting for peony root crowns, with the eyes two inches below the soil surface. Source: Clemson University

Water: Be sure to water thoroughly after planting, especially if it’s dry at planting. Once established, the plants are very drought-resistant.  

Chilling Requirements: Peonies need a period of cold dormancy to thrive. Planting from mid-fall through late winter provides the necessary chilling hours. Here in North Carolina, I prefer to plant in October or November. 

A row of small, freshly planted peonies in the center of the photo, with two mulched paths on either side. A dog and a bag of fertilizer stand in the foreground.

A freshly planted row of peonies. Danielle’s dog Diggity is very proud of their work. Photo: Danielle Crocker

Crop Maintenance and Long-Term Care 

Peonies are a long-term investment, and the first two years are a test of patience. 

Sacrificing Early Blooms: For the first two years after division, I recommend cutting off all flower heads before they open. This forces the plant to channel its energy into root establishment rather than reproduction. By year three you will be rewarded with a flush of strong, abundant stems. 

Weeds and Support: Keep the beds weed free during the initial establishment phase. Once mature, peonies easily outcompete early spring weeds. If you allow flowers to open, they will become quite heavy, so provide support to prevent bending and breaking. However, if you harvest buds before they open (recommended), they often don’t need support.  

Fertilization: A low nitrogen complete fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, at the rate of 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet in early spring is ideal. Do not allow fertilizer to directly contact the plant tissue, as this can harm the plant.  

Stock Regeneration: If you want to divide your mature plants to expand your field or sell rootstock, do so in September or October once the plants have entered dormancy.  

Managing Pests and Diseases 

The biggest threat to a healthy peony crop comes from fungal and bacterial pressures. 

Disease Mitigation: Peonies are susceptible to bacterial blight, Botrytis blight, Phytophthora blight, powdery mildew, root rot, crown gall, Southern blight, and Verticillium wilt. The most effective cultural control is sanitation: cut all plants to the ground every fall and remove the debris from the field to disrupt disease cycles. 

Insects: Keep an eye out for nematodes, scales, thrips, rose chafers, and Japanese beetles. You will also notice ants flocking to the tight buds; they are simply feeding on the sweet sap and do not harm the plant. And contrary to local lore, the ants are not actually necessary for the buds to open. 

The Harvest Window 

Commercial harvesting begins in the third year, stretching from April to mid-June, depending on your specific varieties and location. 

The Marshmallow Stage: For immediate sale, cut the flowers when the buds feel soft and squishy, exactly like a marshmallow. 

Cold Storage Insights: For strategic marketing, you can cut the buds while they are still tight and store them in a refrigerator. It is possible to hold these tight buds for up to three months, allowing you to force blooms later in the season when market supply drops and prices peak. However, this method requires precise temperature control and carries some risk if you do not manage the environment correctly.  

Three light tree pink peonies with yellow centers blooming in the sunshine.

An example of tree peony blooms. Photo: Danielle Crocker

There are many different types of peonies, such as herbaceous, hybrid-herbaceous, tree or woody types, and Itoh peonies. And of course, each of those types has unique varieties. The American Peony Society is a great resource if you’d like to learn more about them.

I typically wouldn’t recommend growing peonies in zones warmer than Zone 7, but I have met people successfully growing peonies in Zone 8. Just make sure to research the nuances of peony varieties before making a pricey bulk purchase. At the end of the day, I encourage reasonable experiments and doing what brings you joy!