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Using Shade Cloth in the South

By Audrey Kolde, NCAT Agriculture Specialist 

For many vegetable growers in climate zones nine and warmer, like where I live in Louisiana, summer brings a familiar yet challenging routine. In May and June, those long sunny days and warm soils fuel vibrant growth. But July and August bring real heat, and suddenly it feels like we’re all moving in slow motion. Tomato pollen becomes infertile, peppers get sunscald, and beans struggle to breathe under high ozone levels.

Two caterpillar tunnels at the VEGGI Farmers Cooperative, with sweet potatoes growing between them. Photo: Audrey Kolde

This seasonal slowdown is a natural part of the farm rhythm and even needed for certain farm goals like cover cropping, infrastructure projects, planning, or that vacation you need. But sometimes you may need to push a crop a bit longer, bridge a production gap, or protect sensitive varieties. That’s where shade becomes a useful tool. 

Though shade cloth has traditionally been used over greenhouses, this clever solution is making its way into open fields, offering an invaluable respite from the sun’s harsh rays. In the fields, the crops basking in too much sunlight can suffer from sunburn, absorbing more light than they can safely use, leading to heat exhaustion and even to their leaves “fainting” from the stress! 

Shade cloth can reduce solar radiation that causes these problems. The even light the net creates prevents overheating, flower drop, localized burn spots on peppers, and cracking on tomatoes when temperatures soar past 90°F.  

Making an Investment 

Now, before we get too excited, let’s talk about costs. Shade cloth can be an investment, with costs dependent on factors such as shading percentage, material, UV stabilization, and whether you opt for knitted or woven. For those covering large areas, costs can escalate quickly, especially when you factor in the necessary hardware, posts, and tensioning systems. But here’s the silver lining: the initial investment often pays off. When the scorching sun brings sunscald, blossom drop, bittering, and reduced fruit set, the economic losses can quickly outweigh the cost of shade structures. Even a minor reduction in plant stress can mean steadier yields, superior quality, and an extended harvest window, offering substantial returns during the most unpredictable parts of the growing season. 

When purchasing shade cloth, cut-to-length pieces work well for first-time users, small-scale growers, or trial runs, while bulk rolls are ideal for farms managing multiple blocks or constructing several shelters. Always seek suppliers who offer UV-stabilized materials, transparent warranty terms, and consistent mesh quality. A reputable supplier will also give you comprehensive specifications, including the actual shade percentage, expected lifespan, airflow properties, and whether the cloth is knitted (which tends to be more durable) or woven (stiffer but may fray). Because shade cloth is an investment, you’re better off using it for your highest-value crops that bring you the greatest return on investment.  

A Versatile Tool

When I first purchased shade cloth, my main goal was to cool down my greenhouse. However, it didn’t take long for me to recognize that my field needed it just as desperately. I explored which setups stood strong in the face of wind and were worth my efforts. What astonished me the most was the sheer versatility of shade cloth – it’s like a chameleon that adapts perfectly when paired with the right structure and crop. 

Shade cloth over a caterpillar tunnel frame protects vulnerable vegetables. Photo: NCAT

I began using shade cloth on low tunnels because I already had some hoops from my winter growing endeavors. This system revealed itself to be one of the simplest and most cost-effective options for shading crops in the field. With a little creativity, you can repurpose wire hoops, PVC pipe, or conduit bent into arches to create tunnels, draping the shade cloth directly over the top and securing it with sandbags, landscape staples, or snap-on clips. The beauty of this system lies in its accessibility; most growers already have the materials on hand, which helps keep costs low and waste to a minimum. However, it’s crucial to ensure proper anchoring and attachment, especially during high winds or sudden summer storms. A few sturdy clips and weighing down the edges can make all the difference in preventing the cloth from lifting or tearing.  

Low tunnels are particularly effective for crops like lettuce, brassicas, cucumbers, herbs, and young transplants. But they’re not without their challenges! One downside is that low tunnels can trap excessive heat when ventilation is restricted, which leads to stressed crops and increased humidity. The key is to use a lighter shade cloth, keep the sides open, and promote good airflow. In hotter climates, opting for lighter-colored or aluminized cloth can reflect heat, while darker cloth might trap it. And let’s not forget about tension! Loose cloth that flaps in the wind wears out quickly, so ensuring it’s snugly stretched over the hoops not only enhances durability but also stabilizes the structure.  

Suspension Systems 

Thinking bigger, I expanded to a suspension-style system that stretched shade cloth over multiple crop rows. This setup involved T-posts, bamboo, EMT conduit, and even 4” x 4” wooden posts along the bed edges. I strung paracord, wire, or greenhouse twine between the posts like clothesline. Achieving strong tension here is essential, and a ratchet strap proved invaluable for getting that perfect tautness. I found that upgrading to 10-foot T-posts provided the resistance I needed for this taller structure. Clipping and zip-tying the shade cloth to the frame resulted in a spacious, airy canopy that kept me cool while I worked beneath it.  

This design not only minimized costs by reusing existing materials but also excelled during afternoon showers, provided I anchored it properly! Deep-set posts, taut lines, and secure attachments are vital to withstand intense rainfall or sudden gusts. And trust me: hurricane winds and sail-like canopies are a recipe for disaster, so make sure to take it down when preparing for a big storm.  

This canopy-style shade works wonders for summer greens, peppers, tomatoes, ginger, and turmeric, due to its excellent ventilation. Inadequate airflow can raise humidity and increase disease risks. The main challenge revolves around maintaining tension. Sagging cloth can create pockets that trap water and wind, putting the structure at risk. Choosing the right shade percentage is crucial, too. If you overshade your crops, you risk hindering their photosynthesis when they need it the most. But with the right setup, this system stands out as one of the most efficient ways to shade multiple beds simultaneously.  

Another effective method is to stretch shade cloth directly over existing trellises. I found that laying shade cloth horizontally above trellis lines or cattle panels—angling it toward the west to buffer that harsh afternoon sun—works like a charm. Try this approach on tomato stakes, Florida-weave systems, and cucumber tunnels. For growers seeking a quick, budget-friendly way to protect sunscald-prone crops like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, this is an excellent starting point.  

Nature’s Solution 

Luffa grows over trellises at Inglewood Farm, with lettuce (not visible) planted beneath. Photo: Audrey Kolde

Stratification, i.e., the natural layering of vegetation, creates cooler, buffered microclimates, which farms can utilize. This is why combining shade cloth with living plants has become one of my favorite agroecological strategies. I plant tall crops such as sunflowers, okra, sorghum-sudan grass, or trellised crops (my favorites are cucuzza, luffa, and cucumbers) to create a vertical, layered habitat that naturally cools the soil and protects sensitive crops. While these plants are growing to full size, I use shade cloth temporarily and then remove it once the living canopy takes over. Mimicking natural ecosystems on the farm can reduce your farm’s plastic use, but it requires close monitoring to avoid competition for water and nutrients. Living shade is particularly effective in mixed perennial-annual systems or on farms seeking long-term ecological resilience. Shade trees and agroforestry systems can provide a more permanent form of stratification, creating microclimate buffers while adding habitat and carbon storage.  

In addition to living shade, there are many other options for complementing or replacing traditional shade cloth. Greenhouses can achieve similar effects by painting the greenhouse with a limewash to diffuse sunlight, thereby reducing heat without adding physical structures. Some farmers experiment with natural-fiber materials like hemp cloth as biodegradable shading options. Drawing from all these tools, living systems, structural shade, and material alternatives, it is possible to design a shade strategy that supports both crop health and long-term farm sustainability. 

Related Resources

ATTRA Publication: Season Extension Techniques for Market Gardeners

ATTRA Blog: Agroforestry and Agrivoltaics: Two Appropriate Technologies for Smart Shade on Farms

This blog is produced by the National Center for Appropriate Technology through the ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture program, under a cooperative agreement with USDA Rural Development. ATTRA.NCAT.ORG.

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Automation Lends a Helping Hand in High Tunnels and Greenhouses 

By Chris Lent, NCAT Agriculture Specialist 

It’s a chilly morning in late March and the seedling house heater kicked on several times overnight to keep the plants happy. The skies are cloudy as you get the kids to the bus and run to the hardware store. On the way back to the farm after your errands, you notice that the clouds are gone, the strength of the late morning sun taking you by surprise after what had been a cool late winter. Oh no… the seedling house! You rush home to make sure your plants aren’t getting cooked.  

If you can relate to this scenario, it may be time to consider the benefits of automating the control points in your high tunnels and seedling houses. Those benefits include more consistent watering, less severe temperature swings, better production results, labor and energy savings, and better work-life balance.  

The tools and systems available for automation are many and varied. The size of your farm, business goals, and lifestyle goals can all help inform decisions on the type and level of automation to move toward on your farm. A good first step is to identify components in your high tunnels and greenhouses that can be automated. For example:

  • Heating (hot air units, boilers, hot water heaters)
  • Cooling (ventilation fans, pad and fan cooling units, A/C) 
  • Humidity control (fans, roll-up sides, ridge vents, fog) 
  • Air circulation (horizontal airflow fans) 
  • Irrigation (pumps and valves) 
  • Lighting 
  • Thermal control (shade, screens, thermal blankets) 

For many years, the default automation used in high tunnels and greenhouses on small to midsize farms relied on dedicated controls. Dedicated controls operate only one piece of equipment at a time. Examples of dedicated controls include in-line irrigation timers and individual thermostats for heating units or fans. These controls require monitoring and manual resetting as weather conditions change. 

Integrated control systems are a newer alternative to dedicated controls. These systems use feedback from sensors and electronic processing to control the frequence and sequence of equipment operation to keep a tunnel or greenhouse very close to temperature and humidity set points. Once installed and programmed, they work autonomously. Integrated controls can operate motors for roll-up sides, ventilation fans, and heating units cooperatively with little manual input.  

An integrated control system for heating and ventilating a seedling house on a farm in PA. Photo: Chris Lent, NCAT

Integrated automation systems can save costs in labor, decrease the risk of losing a crop, and save energy. There are many brands and styles of integrated control systems, so it can be time-consuming to search for the best option. If you have an established relationship with a trusted greenhouse supplier, they can help guide decisions on DIY automation projects.  

Previously, it was primarily large-scale producers who used these kinds of systems, but there are now companies that offer design and installation guidance for smaller scale integrated automation systems. Some brands have screens on the equipment to enable the user to enter set points, while other brands rely entirely on Wi-Fi and a device app for user interface. These systems can range in price between $2,000 and $4,000 per tunnel or greenhouse depending on the complexity and the brand of the system. Some companies also lease system components to the farmer and will automatically replace parts of the system if they fail. This lowers upfront costs and decreases hassle for the farmer.   

Fully integrated systems are something to aspire to, but most growers automate irrigation control and temperature and humidity control separately. For irrigation, a good example of a dedicated control is the simple, low-cost ($10 to $20) controls for irrigation in the form of in-line timers. You can purchase these from greenhouse supply companies, but garden centers and hardware stores also usually carry some version of these devices. They allow you to set an irrigation line to water for a certain amount of time, then automatically shut off.  

A dedicated in-line irrigation timer requires manual setting for each watering event in a tunnel. Photo: Chris Lent, NCAT

Battery powered digital programmable irrigation timers are available as well and can be sized to the irrigation line. These can cost from $100 to $150 for control over a single irrigation zone but give the grower much more control, and once programmed, they can give you freedom from the task of turning water on and off manually. Multi-zone digital controllers allow growers to control multiple valves in a more customized irrigation system.   

Some tips to keep in mind for automation: 

  • Assess the need first: Count the number of heating, cooling, and ventilation units you will need to control and estimate the cost to manually control these. 
  • Get advice and pricing from greenhouse suppliers and companies that focus on greenhouse automation. 
  • Get quality sensors with solar guards and place them near the crop. 
  • Install an ambient air and soil monitoring system to monitor all growing conditions and send notices to your phone. 
  • Consider installing camera monitors so you can visually check conditions in a tunnel or greenhouse on your phone. 
  • Make sure your infrastructure is compatible with the automation system you want. Does it require electricity and reliable internet to work? 

Automating the environmental controls in high tunnels and greenhouses can improve productivity and give some freedom from everyday tasks, but it doesn’t mean growers can become Ron Popeil and “set it and forget it.”  Frequent visits to monitor high tunnel conditions and the health of a crop are still necessary. However, being able to rely on automatic control systems to manage conditions in a tunnel or greenhouse and being able to check those conditions and receive alerts from anywhere gives peace of mind when you decide to step off the farm.   

Ultimately, choosing the right level of automation is about finding a balance that supports both your crops and your daily life. Whether you start with a few dedicated controls or invest in a fully integrated system, each step toward automation can reduce stress, protect your plants, and make your operation more resilient. Automation systems can’t fully replace a grower’s attention and experience, but they can serve as a reliable partner in maintaining optimal conditions, preventing costly mistakes, and creating more time for the many other demands of running a farm. 

Related ATTRA Resources: 

Season Extension Techniques for Market Gardeners 

Sustainable Season Extension: Considerations for Design 

Purchasing and Siting a High Tunnel to Extend the Growing Season 

Organic Greenhouse Vegetable Production 

Additional Resources: 

Greenhouse and High tunnel suppliers: 

High Tunnels Supplier Directory – HighTunnels.org 

Integrated automation companies: 

Link4 Controllers | Link4 Controls 

Orisha | Get Your Tomato Yields Up! 

Agrowtek Inc. :: Grow Controls for Greenhouses, Hydroponics & Indoor Growing

This blog is produced by the National Center for Appropriate Technology through the ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture program, under a cooperative agreement with USDA Rural Development. ATTRA.NCAT.ORG.

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Wool Quality: Preparing for Shearing Time

By Danielle Duni, NCAT Agriculture Specialist 

Whether you have ten sheep or one thousand, proper preparation, handling, and storage of wool can significantly improve the value of your wool clip. When you take steps to produce clean wool, you open the door to better pricing and more opportunities for processing into finished products.

One of the biggest factors affecting wool quality is contamination, which can come from livestock paint, feed, grass seed, baling twine, net wrap, and many other sources. The good news is that there are several steps you can take long before shearing day to reduce contamination and protect your wool quality. You should start making plans for your next clean wool clip shortly after your previous shearing is complete. Keep reading for ways to keep your wool clean from a range of contaminants. 

Sheep Paint 

Many operations shear their sheep before lambing to create a cleaner environment for the birth and to make it easier for lambs to latch onto the ewe. Larger operations often use paint brands to be able to identify ewe and lamb pairs once they’re in the pasture. When you apply paint, use a scourable sheep paint, which can be removed during the wool-cleaning process. Apply paint sparingly and place it consistently within the flock, high on the hind end where it can be easily removed on the shearing floor. Careful placement helps prevent unnecessary contamination of the fleece. 

Synthetic net wrap can contaminate wool if not removed and disposed of. Photo: NCAT

Synthetic Fiber

Feeding practices can also play a major role in wool contamination, especially in confinement settings. Taking the time to remove all net wrap and poly twine from feed and properly disposing of it goes a long way. Additionally, refrain from using twine to hold up posts of gates; twine is made from poly fibers that break down into smaller strands and eventually find their way into the wool. Poly fibers cannot be combed out in processing, resulting in an unusable yarn.  

Feed Particles

Using proper sheep bale feeders helps reduce the amount of time sheep spend climbing into feeders (though anyone with sheep knows they will always find a way). Feeding daily rations instead of allowing continuous access to feed can reduce contamination, although it does require more labor. If you are spreading feed or bales with a tractor or wagon, it is best to keep sheep penned away while spreading to prevent fine feed particles from settling into the wool.  

It’s Shearing Day! 

Speaking from experience, you can never be too prepared for shearing day. The number one priority is keeping sheep dry. A good rule of thumb is this: if you place your hand on top of the fleece and it feels even slightly damp, the sheep are too wet to shear. Moisture can clog shearing equipment, ruin the wool clip, and create unsafe or uncomfortable conditions for the shearing crew. Even a light rain or snow can delay shearing just as much as a major storm. 

Shearing Set-Up 

With larger flocks, shearing crews often bring wool help, i.e., an experienced crew to help with the wool handling and preparation aspect of the shearing process. If you only have a few sheep and no wool help, congratulations, you are the wool help!  

Shearing crews also often bring equipment such as wool packs, wool sweeps, and skirting tables. At a minimum, have proper wool bags and a broom on hand. Wool packs are the industry standard for baling and storing wool and can be purchased online. If a wool sweep is not available, a clean shop broom works well for clearing debris from the shearing area.  

Skirting involves removing undesirable wool such as wool that is contaminated with manure, paint, heavy vegetable matter, dirt, or short fibers. The key is to separate lower quality wool from the main fleece. A skirting table provides the best results when removing bellies, tags, and contaminated pieces from the fleece. Skirting involves removing undesirable contaminants from wool such as manure, paint, heavy vegetable matter, dirt, or short fibers. There are many effective DIY skirting table designs available online. If a table is not feasible, you can skirt directly on the shearing floor. The key is to separate lower quality wool from the main fleece. Additionally, laying down a canvas tarp in the shearing area helps keep wool clean and off the ground. 

Sorting Wool 

After skirting comes sorting. Best practice is to have separate bags ready for the main fleece line and off-sorts such as bellies, pieces, and tags (often grouped together). If the main fleece varies in quality, you can split it into an AA (highest quality) line and an A line. Even if you have limited experience with wool sorting or classing, the important take away is to sort “like wool with like wool.” Shorn belly wool goes into the belly bag. Areas of contamination, such as the crow’s nest/top knot or painted wool, go into the pieces bag. The main fleece goes into the mainline bag, taking care to remove short fibers or weak samples that break easily when pulled. (For more on fleece anatomy, check out this article from New Mexico State University). Compost or discard wool from the hind end with manure contamination, as it can add moisture to the bales. The main fleece goes into the mainline bag, taking care to remove short fibers or weak samples that break easily when pulled.  

When sorting, it’s helpful to pull a sample from the fleece to evaluate quality. Measure length against your hand, with a general minimum of three inches. Test strength by gently pulling the staple apart to check for breaks. If your flock includes colored fiber sheep, shear them last to prevent contamination of white wool. 

Danielle Duni sits atop bales of wool that are sorted and ready for market.

Baling Wool

Once sorted, it’s time for baling. Some shearing crews bring hydraulic wool balers that compress wool into 400-to-500-pound bales. The wool packs (bags) are then securely fastened to keep the wool clip protected.  

Labeling and Storage 

And don’t forget the final step: labeling! Industry standard labeling guidelines can be found through the American Sheep Industry Association. At a minimum, each bag should include the operation name, bag number, wool description (mainline or off-sorts), and year. Store wool in proper wool packs in a dry area. Storing bales on pallets helps prevent moisture absorption and allows for airflow. Ideally, wool should be stored indoors in an area with moderate temperature fluctuations. 

Shearers Know Best 

One of the best resources you have is your shearer. Ask what you can do to set up the area for success. A pen with an alley run is a great starting point. Keeping the shearing area clean is essential. Lightly watering the barn floor beforehand to prevent dust can help conditions be ideal. Shearers might have other tips like that to make sure the shearing goes smoothly and the wool clip is the best quality possible.  

This blog is just an overview of preparing for sheep shearing. For more information, please reach out to our NCAT agriculture specialists at askanag@ncat.org. Additionally, the American Sheep Industry (ASI) provides great resources for how to prepare, sort, handle and store the wool clip. Find some of their resources below.  

Resources:  

Preparation Steps for Wool Quality Improvement
https://www.sheepusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Prep-Steps-Brochure-Small-Size.pdf  

Wool Contamination: American Sheep Industry Association, Inc. 
https://www.sheepusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Wool_contamination-1.pdf  

Poly Contamination: American Sheep Industry Association, Inc.
https://www.sheepusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Poly-1.pdf  

Understanding Wool Grads: New Mexico State University
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_b/B409/index.html

Code of Practice for Preparation of Wool Clips 
https://www.sheepusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/code-of-practice-2021.pdf  

Wool Handling Videos (for purchase): American Sheep Industry Association, Inc.
https://www.sheepusa.org/product/wool-handling-videos  

This blog is produced by the National Center for Appropriate Technology through the ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture program, under a cooperative agreement with USDA Rural Development. ATTRA.NCAT.ORG.

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The Weight of Water in Every Melon

By Darron Gaus, NCAT Agriculture Specialist 

A Taste of July 

When I was farming in San Antonio, Texas, one of my favorite crops to grow was watermelon. I would often stop during harvest to sit on the sun-warmed soil, cut open a 10-pound source of potassium-rich hydration, and chat with the crew while juice flowed down our chins. I even carried a shaker of pink Himalayan sea salt in my back pocket, ready for the quick draw when that moment came. (And if you’ve never salted your watermelon, give it a try. Just trust me on this.) Those were special moments that helped us all endure the arduous work of farming. 

Over the course of nearly 20 seasons, I grew watermelons in almost every way imaginable and learned a lot about this unique cucurbit. I often pondered if the “water” in “watermelon” comes from the contents or its water-seeking abilities. Watermelon can congregate its fibrous root system to function like a central tap root. It does this in sandy soils with astounding efficiency, even potentially reaching down into the water table itself. I grew watermelons in modeling clay, the blackest of gumbos. After the first few seasons, I learned that I needed to play to the watermelon’s strengths. If I wanted the soil’s water to convert into hydration to enjoy during my future break times, I had to adapt my growing methods. 

Learning from Failure and Abundance 

I began conventionally, using industry-standard methods for growing watermelon at scale. My crew and I chisel plowed once a year and disk harrowed three times in every direction. Then we prepped the beds in one pass with the fine, almost desiccated clay shaped by a metal pan, covered with plastic mulch, and bisected by a single line of drip irrigation in the middle of each. After all that, I had to pump the water back in that I just helped evaporate into thin air. Three hundred thousand gallons of water for the five acres of soon-to-be-planted watermelons poured through pipes, hoses, and drip tape to ensure transplants or seeds had available moisture as soon as they dropped into their new home for the next 80 to 100 days.  

Time-sensitive cultivation with 12-inch listers (arrow-shaped metal sweeps designed to move soil to either side of a center furrow) and hand-weeding the holes was the only thing left to do before harvest. Plant density was high in this system, and the yield was great, but keeping up with water demands in the high shrink-swell clay was a constant failure. The hardpan that formed from so many equipment passes was impenetrable, even for the well-adapted watermelon roots. 

Farmworkers bringing in the watermelon harvest. Photo: USDA, Preston Keres.

After two seasons of conventional methods, I began implementing conservation practices that would increase organic matter, conserve soil moisture, and reduce my time on the tractor. Increasing organic matter in the heavy clay I farmed greatly increased porosity, water retention, living biology in the soil, and nutrient cycling. Cover crops, with a mix of at least three species, became my new obsession. Three quarters of the 105 acres were under cover crops designed for specific benefits: high biomass for weed suppression and organic matter, a brassica for insect trapping and greater soil porosity, and a legume for nitrogen fixation.  

The cover crops provided one more critical benefit: they captured every rain drop that fell. I no longer had rill erosion in my furrows after a two-inch-per-hour rainfall. The large rills that once forced me to waste time sweeping beds back up were gone. Soil aggregation and tilth improved. Organic matter increased and the high pH came down. Watermelons grew like they were supposed to.  

The first season of adopting this new farming approach came with its share of challenges. We had to develop innovative cultivation techniques to manage weed pressure and adjust our bed preparation methods to work with a high-residue topsoil layer. These adjustments initially led to a 20% drop in yields. However, after a season of learning and refining our practices, the results were remarkable—yields rebounded to impressive levels, all while requiring significantly less irrigation. 

Pushing the Envelope

Watermelon interplanted with Sudan grass. Photo by Darron Gaus.

Once I started seeing the changes that the conservation practices were making, I wanted to add more. I wanted to try new things, so I pushed the envelope. I wanted those juice-covered-chin breaks in harvesting watermelon in November, not just July. The only thing standing in the way was overcoming the water demand of an August planting. August in San Antonio is usually 31 days of triple-digit temperatures and no rain in the forecast. Sudan grass grows tall quickly in these conditions, so I interplanted it with the watermelon. The idea was that the Sudan grass would provide wind breaks and shade to the seedlings, helping to conserve soil moisture. And it worked! We harvested watermelon in November that year, but it came with consequences. The harvest took place in nine-foot-tall grass-walled tunnels, which made passing the watermelons to the edges of the field for easy pick-up impossible. Every single watermelon (all undersized because of lack of sunlight during fruiting) had to be individually walked out of the field. Luckily, we had 200 volunteers from the Air Force on the day of harvest, and in spite of the tall grass, they still managed to pack out 12,000 pounds of three-to-five-pound fruits in just under two hours. That November was the only fall harvest of watermelon in my career; the price of labor was too steep. I pushed it too far, but I learned. 

Water Rising to the Surface 

Watermelons taught me many lessons, but none as important as water conservation. What began as a simple pursuit of sweetness transformed into a lesson about the lifeline that sustains these plants: water. Each watermelon I grew represented the delicate balance between abundance and scarcity. I learned how much water it takes to nurture just one fruit, and how easily that resource can be taken for granted.  

Within the vibrant green rind and the refreshing red flesh is a story of soil, sun, and most critically, sustainability. In tending to the vines, I began to see the bigger picture. I saw how water connects everything: the land, the food we eat, and the future we hope to build. What started as farming became a quiet education in stewardship.  

Watermelons, in their quiet way, reminded me that what’s beneath the surface often matters most—our water, our world, our shared responsibility.  

Come back for Part Two of the sweetest story ever told. It involves compost, city citations, crowded cover crops, and conservation dryland farming. 

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True Love, Tomatoes, and Trouble: Managing Heat Stress in Tomato Production

By Andy Pressman, NCAT Sustainable Agriculture Program Director

“Homegrown tomatoes, homegrown tomatoes,
What’d life be without homegrown tomatoes?
Only two things that money can’t buy
And that’s true love and homegrown tomatoes.”

– Guy Clark, Homegrown Tomatoes

Listen to a clip of “Homegrown Tomatoes” by Guy Clark

The author’s daughter enjoying a homegrown tomato.

It sure is hard to imagine life without homegrown tomatoes. For some, like American folk singer Guy Clark, it is well worth the wait over the winter months for a sun-ripened tomato fresh off the vine, and for the experience of first biting into one and feeling that rush of flavor as it explodes in your mouth. This moment of joy is not limited to gardeners—anyone can seek out these precious, homegrown flavors from farmers who grow tomatoes skillfully and with great care.

Tomatoes are a staple summer crop for many diversified farms: high-value, in-demand, and, when conditions are right, highly productive. But as summers grow hotter and more unpredictable, even this dependable crop can show signs of stress. Blossom drop, sunscald, delayed or uneven ripening, and declines in yield are symptoms caused by intense heat.

Whether you’re selling at farmers markets, through CSA shares, or to wholesale accounts, heat stress in tomato production can quickly translate into lost income. With the right strategies, you can mitigate heat-related issues and maintain healthy, productive plants, even at the height of summer. Read on for common heat-related issues and how to solve them.

Fruit Set and Blossom Drop

Heat can impede fruit set when daytime highs are consistently over 90°F and nighttime temperatures stay above 70°F. Blossoms can drop and pollen can become less viable as the plant shifts from reproductive to survival mode. Choosing heat-tolerant varieties and staggering plantings to avoid peak summer stress, including planting early in high tunnels, can reduce blossom drop. Using hoops and shade cloth in the field can reduce the sun’s intensity. Managing soil temperature and moisture by utilizing practices such as drip irrigation and mulching can also help retain flowers.

Close-up of a tomato blossom. Photo credit: Nina Prater.

Pollination

Fruit deformities can result from a lack of pollination. Planting pollinator habitats in and around tomato plantings can increase pollination from native pollinators. It’s also a good idea to limit insecticide use (even organic-approved insecticides) during bloom periods. Hand-pollinating plants can improve pollination rates, especially in high tunnels. Applying a kelp or seaweed fertilizer as a foliar spray during early flowering also helps mitigate heat-related stress that impacts pollination and causes misshapen fruits.

Sunscald

Sunscald on tomatoes occurs when the fruit is exposed to intense sun, especially after the plants are pruned and leaf cover is reduced. Sunscald causes the fruit to develop leathery white or gray patches on the skin that make it unmarketable. Maintaining leaf canopy during periods of extreme heat by limiting pruning and sucker removal can reduce sunscald. Trellising can assist in providing more leaf canopy, while also assisting with airflow. And, as with blossom drop, utilizing shade techniques in high tunnels or in the field can reduce the risk of sunscald during periods of intense heat.

Ripening Issues and Yellow Shouldering

Extended periods of high temperatures can cause uneven or delayed ripening, and can also cause the fruit to exhibit green or yellow tops, known as yellow shouldering. Managing potassium availability in the soil can help prevent these issues. Use soil tests to determine potassium levels and apply amendments, such as kelp meal, as needed. Adding too much nitrogen, especially late in the season, can prolong vegetative growth, which slows fruit ripening. If daytime heat is affecting the color or appearance of the fruit, consider harvesting early and ripening indoors.

Blossom-End Rot

Another disorder caused by heat stress is blossom-end rot. While tied to inadequate amounts of calcium, blossom-end rot is more associated with a lack of water. The hotter the temperature, the more water is lost to transpiration from the tomato plants. This increase in water loss causes small lesions on the blossom end of the fruit that gradually spread and turn the area into a brownish or tan color. Timely irrigation and maintaining proper pH and calcium levels in the soil can prevent blossom-end rot.

White Core

Variety of beautiful heirloom tomatoes. Photo credit: USDA Lance Cheung.

Internally, tomatoes can develop a hard white core from excessive heat and inadequate fertility. In moderate cases, white core can occur just beneath the flower-shaped leaf, or calyx, on the top of the fruit. In more extreme cases, you may see white core extend through the entire fruit. Having adequate foliage cover and potassium levels can prevent white core. Additionally, older varieties are more susceptible to white core, while newer varieties are less prone to this issue. Therefore, variety selection can again help mitigate this disorder.

Fruit Cracking

Mid- to late-summer tomato harvests often occur during dry periods. However, an afternoon shower can cause the fruit to swell faster than the skin can stretch, resulting in fruit cracking. Fruit cracking can also occur through sudden irrigation during a dry spell. Cracking can be managed by reducing moisture fluctuations, and through the consistent use of drip irrigation. Mulching conserves soil moisture and reduces the risk of temperature swings. If a sudden rain shower is in the forecast after a dry spell, harvesting tomatoes at first blush or the breaker stage (a slight change in color from green to no more than 10% pink, red, orange, or yellow) and ripening indoors will keep the fruit from cracking. Research shows that ripening in a protected structure at temperatures between 55° F and 65° F is equal to ripening on the vine, while ripening at 68° F increases the sweetness and overall flavor of the tomato.

Tomatoes may love the heat, but even they have their limits. By observing your plants closely, using techniques to mitigate heat stress, choosing the right varieties, and managing soil and water strategically, you can protect your crops and enjoy a fruitful harvest. And, while the summer heat may test your patience and your plants, there’s still something magic about harvesting a perfect slicer in the middle of July—enough to make you hum a little of Guy Clark’s tune on your way back from the field.

Read more on tomato production in our ATTRA publication, Organic Tomato Production.

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The Case for Tractor Farming

By Audrey Kolde, NCAT Sustainable Agriculture Specialist

My experience in farming started at the hand-tool scale. I enjoy the physical labor, that tangible connection to the land. But years of repetitive movement have started to catch up with me. My love of farming hasn’t changed as the aches and pains have increased—in fact, it has grown. I want to produce even more food to feed my community. I want to grow crops that are calorie- and nutrient-dense, and store well, like beans, winter squash, sweet potatoes, and dent corn—but these require a lot of land. They are cornerstones of the American diet that small-scale gardens often can’t keep up with.

With these crops in mind, my farming partner and I have started the journey to transition part of our land to tractor farming. It is a work in progress. As two women running a farm, we started to think more about why more women aren’t transitioning from small- to mid-scale operations. Women represent 9% of primary farmers in small-scale farms ($100,000-$350,000) and 5% of primary farmers in mid-scale operations ($350,000-$1,000,000). Women have continued farming in small-scale and traditional systems that involve a lot of manual labor and require physical strength. However, mechanization and technology like tractors offer women the chance to broaden their opportunities in agriculture.

Increase Productivity
One major reason to adopt tractor farming is that it makes it possible to cultivate larger areas in less time, with less hired help, and less backbreaking work. Mechanizing tasks like bed shaping, planting, and cultivation is game-changing. Using tractors increases productivity and efficiency, leading to bigger harvests, better quality produce, and access to lucrative markets that require a larger volume of products.

Improve Profitability
Tractors can make it easier for women to grow their businesses and achieve financial independence, helping to close the gender gap in agricultural productivity and land ownership. According to the 2012 Farm Census, female farmers in the United States earn about 40% less than male farmers. As women earn more, they can reinvest in their businesses by buying more equipment, diversifying their crops, or improving how they market their products. This economic freedom allows women to become successful agricultural entrepreneurs.

Improve Farmer Health
One of the biggest benefits of using a tractor for me is that it reduces the need for so much heavy (and expensive, if hired out) manual labor. I am all too aware of the back pain that planting, weeding, and harvesting crops can lead to. By using tractors, women can better manage their health while increasing their farm’s productivity. Tasks you wouldn’t immediately think of, like moving tarps and weights, are much easier with tractors. I once even moved a walk-behind tractor with a riding tractor.

Improve Conservation Practices
As an added bonus, tractors have so many attachments that can help with conservation practices. Proper tilling and cultivation help with pest management. No-till drills and roller crimpers make cover cropping easier. And the world of precision farming methods, like GPS and sensors, save water, use fewer chemicals, and enhance crop yields with less environmental harm.

Barriers
Unlike seed packets and wheel hoes, financing tractors costs more than a pretty penny. Tractors require capital to purchase, rent, or borrow. Women will likely need to find financial help through affordable loans from institutions such as the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Farm Service Agency, Women’s Business Center, or the Small Business Administration, or grants through organizations like USDA Rural Development, National Women’s Business Council, RAFI, and American Farmland Trust’s Brighter Future Fund.

Another barrier is knowledge. Tractor operation is a skill that can be intimidating to learn. Organizations like NCAT and Extension Services are trying to overcome this barrier by training new farmers on how to operate tractors, maintain equipment, and use sustainable practices. Experienced farmers are also an invaluable source of knowledge, and now is the time for those skilled in using tractors to pass their knowledge on to the next generation. The generational transition in farming is coming, and our ability to maintain a steady food supply will require a smooth transition, passing the torch to well-trained hands.

Conclusion
Tractors, used responsibly, can turn more acres into productive, sustainable land, reducing food insecurity and improving the local economy in communities. By overcoming a few barriers, women farmers can improve their profitability and increase their chances of long-term health and success.

ATTRA Resources

Maintaining Your Tractor – Building Your Toolbox

Scaling Up Your Vegetable Farm for Regional Markets

Equipment and Tools for Small-Scale Intensive Crop Production

NCAT Highlights Safety Resources During Farm Safety and Health Week

Other Resources

American Farmland Trust’s Research into Women in Agriculture

The State of Gender Equity in U.S. Agriculture (pdf)

Sources

Dentzman, K. and Lewin, P. (2024), A Fair Comparison: Women’s and Men’s Farms at Seven Scales in the United States. Rural Sociology, 89: 3-39. https://doi.org/10.1111/ruso.12512https://doi.org/10.1111/ruso.12512 

Schmidt, C., Goetz, S. J., & Tian, Z. (2021). Female farmers in the United States: Research needs and policy questions. Food Policy, 102039. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodpol.2021.102039  

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Episode 359. Teatime in Mississippi

In this episode of Voices from the Field, NCAT Sustainable Agriculture Specialist Audrey Kolde talks with Timothy Gipson, co-owner and co-founder of The Great Mississippi Tea Company in Brookhaven, Mississippi. Their conversation touches on the challenges and successes the company has had growing this popular specialty crop in the Magnolia State.

Related ATTRA Resources:

Other Resources:

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You can get in touch with NCAT/ATTRA specialists and find access to our trusted, practical sustainable-agriculture publications, webinars, videos, and other resources at ATTRA.NCAT.ORG.

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Seeding Root Crops

By Audrey Kolde, NCAT Agriculture Specialist

As a nongenerational farmer, most of my agricultural experiences before entering the field of farming and food systems had huge impacts on my decision to farm, from childhood memories of wild blackberries to college-age harvesting of carrots.

I love direct seeding crops; it feels like an act of faith that the seeds won’t fail, or the weeds won’t choke them out. It never seems to lose its wonder, the careful bed preparation that ends in straight rows of seedlings. Or sometimes, the rushed bed flip is good enough. Please, Jesus, take the wheel. With either farming style, I want to make sure you have the 411 behind-the-scenes of some of my favorite roots.

Prepping my bed can be a quick flip for my later successions, but let’s pretend that I am coming out of the rest period of the garden (July and August for me), so I get to do some TLC ahead of planting. I use a silage tarp to break down plant matter from previous crops. Then, I decrease the seedbed. There are a number of ways to do this, including tilling, flaming, solarizing, and stirrup. Now it’s time to water and sprout, and then repeat the process to kill these sprouts.

As I switch seasons, I also like to keep tabs on my soil temperature with a thermometer or at the nearest extension research center to ensure that my roots will germinate. If I can help it, I don’t waste seeds on soil that is too hot or too cold. It is the best tool to know when to plant since every year brings an irregularity to the climate.

Next, I want the bed to have a near-perfect texture. I want to see no debris or chunks in the bed, a beautiful tilth to the soil, and a level bed top. I need this textural perfection for the seeding tools made for freshly tilled and shaped beds.

How do I make that happen? I remove debris with a rake, use a wheel hoe or a push tiller set at a shallow depth, or add an inch of compost. Then I add a broadfork to break up the tiller pan for deeper roots.

Ready to start planting? The following are some seeding options to consider.

  • Hand seeding with shallow trenches: Use the handle end of a rake to make the trenches and then use the back side of the rake to close them.
  • EarthWay Seeder: Easy to use and low cost but may result in inconsistent seed distribution due to its reliance on how fast you walk.
  • Four-Row Pinpoint Seeder: Easy to use with minimal setup, making it a good choice for quick planting. It’s robust, durable, and effective with various soil conditions and seed types.
  • Jang Seeder: Known for its precision and adaptability, it is suitable for professional growers and dedicated enthusiasts. However, it’s higher priced, and it may take some time to master its many options and settings.

And here are some tips for growing a few of my favorite root vegetables:

Beets

Germination soil temp: 40 to 90°F degrees
Soil PH: 6 to 7.5
Days to germination: 5 to 8
Days to harvest: ~40 to 55
Prefers soil 65 to 75°F
Thin to 3” to 4″ apart or 6″ for winter storage

I’ve found that beets bring some challenges to be aware of. The beets’ seeds are dried fruits that contain a cluster of two to six seeds. After planting, thinning them out is essential to ensure healthy growth. When seeding, it’s crucial to stay vigilant because the irregular shape of the seeds can potentially clog up a machine. To address this problem, some seed companies have begun producing pelleted seeds to prevent clogging and ensure smoother planting.

Jang seeder

Jang seeder. Photo: Audrey Kolde, NCAT

Carrots

Germination soil temp: 45 to 85°F
Soil pH: 5.5 to 7
Days to germination: 7 to 21
Days to harvest: ~35 (baby) to 75
Prefers soil 60 to 70°F
Thin to 2″ apart

Carrot seeds are tiny and difficult to sow evenly. Some farmers sow carrot seeds with sand or coffee grounds to achieve better spacing. You can use seed tape or pelleted seeds if that makes your life easier and helps reduce thinning and wasted seeds. Personally, this crop is what made me upgrade to a more precise seeder. The real trick to carrots is maintaining the moisture that they require. You can achieve this by watering two to three times per day or laying fabric like burlap sacks over the soil and watering them.

Turnips

Germination soil temp: 60 to105°F
Soil pH: 5.5 to 7
Days to germination: 2 to 5
Days to Harvest: ~38 to 50
Prefers soil 40 to 75°F
Trim to 2″ to 4″ apart

Turnips can germinate at 105°F! That is impressive! And also counterintuitive, since turnips like cooler soil temperatures during growth, but this can be achieved by mulching once they germinate. I like to use insect netting to keep those flea beetles at bay so I can sell the turnips with greens on.

Starting seeds in beautiful, meticulously prepared soil is always the dream. But the reality of farming often has other plans for us. Don’t worry. By better understanding your growing conditions and your tools, you can escape the worst of last-minute panic seeding, with fingers crossed that they germinate. Instead, you can make educated decisions on controlling the weather in your microbiome, like the mad scientist you are. I’m rooting for you!

Related ATTRA Resources:

Equipment and Tools for Small-Scale Intensive Crop Production

Sustainable Weed Management for Small and Medium-Scale Farms

Other Resources:

Vegetable Growing Guides, Cornell University

The Best Vegetable Seeders for Market Gardening — The Earthway Seeder

The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible

This blog is produced by the National Center for Appropriate Technology through the ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture program, under a cooperative agreement with USDA Rural Development. ATTRA.NCAT.ORG.